Playing with Puzzles

I just wanted to try out this puzzle embedding script, so I've used a photo of my cat, Molly. I thought it might be fun to post knitting photos in a puzzle format from time to time.

Odds n' Ends Socks

Here's a photo of my current WIP, socks for myself made from the odds and ends of sock yarn that I've collected over the last couple of years. The yarn is a mixture of Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sock yarn, Opal sock yarn, and Confetti sock yarn. The pattern is one that I concocted over the last few years to fit my ever swelling ankles and calves.

I'm doing both socks at once on 2mm Brittany Birch dpn's. I started with a star toe, the body of the foot is done on 72 stitches for 7 inches. I did stocking stitch on the bottom of the foot and a 2x2 garter rib stitch on the top of the foot. Then I did a garter stitch short row heel on 40 stitches.

When I finished the heel, I started doing 2x2 garter rib on all of the 72 stitches. I did this for 2 inches then did an increase row making the pattern a 3k x 2p garter rib (90 sts.) At 5 inches, I increased again for a 3x3 garter rib and that's where I'm at now.

I plan to continue in the 3x3 garter rib until the socks reach 8 or 9 inches, then I'm going to use 1x1 ribbing until the socks are long enough to reach my knees (or until I run out of yarn).

Knitting for Rugs or Mats

Now that I have recorded the Preface and Introductory Chapter, I will skip through the book, highlighting the knitting patterns and other interesting tidbits. The book does cover crochet, tatting, netting, point lace, braiding and embroidery, as well as knitting but, as I am not proficient in these other needlework arts, I will just work with the knitting.

"KNITTING, FOR RUGS OR MATS OF ANY SIZE. p.11

The wool which is to form the raised work is cut in even lengths; to cover a mesh with a groove, to admit the scissors, is the best way. The needles and material for the foundation must be proportioned to the article intended to be made. For a hearth or carriage-rug, the needles should be 8 or even a larger size. The material---fine, soft twine, or the coarsest woollen yarn---almost as coarse as moss yarn.

For an urn rug, the needles must be from 12 to 15, and the material the coarsest sewing cotton, very fine twine, or coarse strong, woollen yarn.

Set on the number of stitches you wish. Knit a row.

For the row at which you insert the wool.---Knit a stitch; take the wool to be worked in, in the left hand; put it round the foundation material, (which is held in the fingers of the right hand) close to the right-hand needle; put the ends even together, and draw it under the right hand needle, to the front. Knit a stitch, pass the wool back again, under the right-hand needle---then take another piece of the wool, and proceed as described above; repeat to the end of the row, then knit a plain row, and repeat the instructions given above for inserting the wool. For a hearth rug, the wool to be inserted should be a least four times double."

Now that I've gotten that little set of instructions proof-read, I will try to interpret them in wool. I will work on this over the next few days and post some photos as I go.

Introductory Chapter - Part Two

Today, I will complete the Introductory Chapter:

There are many occasions in life when ladies desire to mark their esteem for a friend by some gift or token; and they are often puzzled in the choice of what to give or to work. Hence it is that no question is more frequently asked than, "What will be a suitable present for so-and so?" or, "What will be the most valuable things I can make for a Fancy Fair?"

In making gifts to individuals, the leading idea is, to assure them of our regard. That the gift is our own production, greatly adds to its value in the estimation of the recipient; and, indeed, there are many circumstances in which, when desiring to show gratitude for kindness, a lady may very properly offer a specimen of her own work, when a purchased gift would be either unsuitable or out of her power. For the same reason,---that it proves the receiver to have been an object of our thought and care,---any article evidently intended for that person only, is more welcome than such as might have been worked for anybody. The following list of articles, suitable for the respective purposes, will be found suggestive:---

PRESENTS FOR GENTLEMEN.

BRACES.-- Embroidered on velvet, or worked on canvas, from a Berlin pattern.
CIGAR CASES.--Crochet. Velvet, and cloth appliqué, velvet, or cloth braided. Embroidered or worked in beads.
SLIPPERS.--Braided on cloth, morocco, or velvet; appliqué cloth and velvet; Berlin work.
SHAVING BOOKS, especially useful.--Braided. Worked in beads on canvas. Crochet, coloured beads, and white cotton. (washable)
SMOKING CAPS.---Velvet braided richly; cloth, velvet and cloth appliqué. Netted and darned on crochet.
FRONTS FOR BRIDLES.---Crest embroidered with seed beads.
WAISTCOATS.---Braided on cloth or velvet. Embroidered.
PENWIPERS.---Worked in beads, and fringed. Appliqué velvet and cloth. Gold thread.
BOOKMARKERS.
PURSES.
SERMON CASES.
COMFORTERS. DRIVING MITTENS. SCARFS.

BRIDAL PRESENTS.

CHAIRS.---Embroidered in appliqué. Berlin work ditto. Braided ditto.
SOFA CUSHIONS.---Braided or embroidered.
SCREENS.---Raised cut Berlin work. Berlin work with beads.
HAND SCREENS.---Netted and darned. Appliqué. Crochet.
ANTIMACASSARS.
TABLE COVERS.---Cloth, with bead or Berlin borders. Cloth braided.
SET OF DISH MATS.---Worked in beads, with initials in the centre; border round; and grounded in clear white beads.
FANCY MATS.---For urns, lamps, &c.
OTTOMANS.---Braided. Appliqué, or embroidered.
FOOTSTOOLS.---Berlin or bead work. Braided.
WHATNOTS.---Braided. Berlin work.
DOYLEYS.---The set---bread, cheese, and table doyleys---worked in troderie and chain stitch.
WATCHPOCKETS.
NETTED CURTAINS.

FOR A BRIDE.

POINT-LACE COLLARS, CHEMISETTES, HANDKERCHIEFS, &c.
EMBROIDERED DITTO.
HANDKERCHIEF Case or Box.---On satin, embroidered or braided in delicate colours.
GLOVE BOX.---Worked in beads. Initials in centre; grounded with white beads.
SLIPPERS.---Braided or embroidered.
WORKBASKETS.---Netted and darned, or darned on filet, or crochet.
CARRIAGE BAGS.---Braided. Worked in Berlin work or beads.
PURSES.---Netted and darned, or crochet; delicate colours, as pink and silver.
PORTE-MONNAIE, or NOTE CASE.---Crest or monogram in centre, grounded in beads.
EMBROIDERED APRONS.---Worked in broderie-en-lacet. Braided, or embroidered.
TOILET CUSHIONS.---Crochet or netting.
RETICULES.---Darned netting; or embroidery.

CHRISTENINGS.

INFANTS' CAPS.---Point lace, crochet, or embroidery.
FROCKS.---Ditto.
QUILTS.---Crochet. Bead borders with motto, and drop fringe. Crest in the centre.
PINCUSHIONS.---Crochet, or embroidered satin.
BLANKETS.---Knitted with white wool, in double knitting,---a real "blessing to mothers."


These are a few of the leading and most useful presents. They are equally appropriate as offerings to a Fancy Fair.

In the choice of materials, much difficulty is often found, especially by those ladies who reside in the country. It is therefore necessary to allude to the cottons of Messrs. Walter Evans & Co., of Derby, manufacturers of the celebrated Boar's-Head Crochet Cotton, as those used exclusively in the following designs.

The fabrics of this firm have enjoyed a well-merited reputation for many years; we have used them ourselves for every design, because we have invariably found that they combined in an eminent degree the requisites of colour, evenness, and strength, so necessary for Fancy Work. Many have been manufactured expressly for the various styles of work which have become fashionable from time to time; and amongst these we may notice the Royal Embroidery Cotton, the Tatting Cotton, and the Patent Glacé (or Glazed) Thread, a new and exquisite material for every sort of plain work; the use of other cottons is liable to cause some confusion in working out their designs, owing to different makers employing various methods of numbering; for example, No. 10, Evan's Boar's-Head Cotton, is suitable for Beads No. 2; whilst No. 10 of other makers may prove either too fine or coarse for the purpose; and for the same reason other cottons might not work out the designs of the original dimensions.

So much for materials. A few words to those who desire to make their labours a source of profit.

Not a week passes without some dozens of inquiries as to where work can disposed of; and we are obliged to say, that no Institution for this purpose exists in London. Some is disposed of at the Bazaars,---more is confided to the stand-keepers, for sale on commission,---and occasionally shops purchase a little, or give out work to those whom they may find competent. But the fact is, amateur needlework is like amateur painting, or drawing, or singing,---it is not of that quality which commands a price, however much flattering friends may extol it as charming and exquisite! It requires care, patience, and perseverance, as well as instruction, to be a good work-woman. Being such, however, there is little doubt that employment could be found,---not so remunerative, perhaps, as to constitute a livelihood, but such as will afford an agreeable addition to a limited income.

Finally, whatever elucidations may be needed of any work or design in these pages, can always be obtained in those of the current numbers of the "Family Friend," addressed to the Editor of the Needlework Department, care of Messrs. Ward & Lock, 158, Fleet Street, London; and every material can be procured of Mrs. Pullan, 126, Albany Street, Regent's Park.

Introductory Chapter - Part One

It seems like Sundays are the best day for me to blog about the "Treasures in Needlework", so be it. I will put a little of my favourite bits here on Sundays. Today, I'm going to share the first half of the Introductory Chapter:

In a retrospect of the Art of Needlework, whether of sewing, knitting or crochet, from the earliest period to the present time, it is impossible to estimate too highly the advantages of its domestic or ornamental character. In the one position, it brings daily blessings to every home, unnoticed, perhaps, because of its hourly silent application; for in a household each stitch is one for comfort to some person or other; and without its ever-watchful care home would be a scene of discomfort indeed. In its ornamental adaptation, it delights the eye, amuses the mind, nay, sometimes cheats grief of its sorrow; but, more than all, gives bread to thousands. The women of every nation, from time immemorial to the present, have beguiled their hours with the needle, from "the embroidered hangings of the temple, and the garments of fine needlework for kings' daughters," worked with gold, and silk, and precious stones, to the mocassins and festive ornaments of the savage embroidered with beads. Upon all classes and in all climes this simple instrument has bestowed a varied charm.


KNITTING is a chief source of employment to numbers of peasantry of Europe; and in many parts of England the stockings and socks are knitted in the family, these being found much more durable than woven ones; and many articles also of great beauty and gossamer lightness are produced by nimble fingers and slender wires. A few specimens that have been recently imported from India, knitted by some modern Arachne, will almost challenge the spider's web for fineness. Much could be said in the praise of this branch of needlework, as adapted to every climate, whether we compare the delicate textures of the East, or the warm vests, socks, gloves, and neck-ties suitable to our colder climate; but for one peculiar quality, knitting should be held in reverence, -- it is almost the sole employment and comfort of the indigent and aged blind; therefore all praise be to that art which can assuage a sorrow, or lighten an affliction.


NETTING, or KNOTTING as it was once termed, has its manifold uses. The art is of high antiquity, and the implements that have come down to us from bygone ages are much the same as those in present use. By it the fisher captures the shoals of fish which make so dainty an appearance on the table, and by it he entirely provides food and clothing for his family. By it the gardener preserves his fruits, the boy delights to catch the finny tribe, the fowler to trap his birds, and the pedlar to produce his cabbage-nets. Balloons have their silken coverings encased with it; ladies make purses, caps, fringes, and "golden nets for the hair which tangle lovers' hearts."


In the Museum at Berlin there still exist nets made by those fathers of all the arts, the Egyptians, three thousand years ago. Pliny mentions some nets which he had seen of so delicate a texture as to be easily passed through a man's ring, while a sufficient number could be carried by one person to surround a whole wood; each thread of these nets was composed of one hundred and fifty strands.


The women of Theurapia on the Bosphorus are, at this day, celebrated for their exquisitely fine netting, the ornamentation of which consists in raised flowers beautifully netted in the work. Most persons have seen the almost inimitable netting of those articles called Maltese mittens, so light as to be blown away by a breath, and so faultless that no join of the silk can be discovered in them.


CROCHET is the shepherd's knitting of primitive times, when the outer garments were made of the wool torn off the backs of the sheep by the brambles, which was collected, spun, and converted into warm clothing, with the aid of a hook neatly cut at the end of a stick. With the same shaped instrument of polished steel our elaborate designs are produced, and by it, probably more than three thousand years ago, Penelope wove the famous shroud of Laertes, as no other texture could have borne the constant"fretting" occasioned by the weaving and unweaving for so long a space of time:

"All day she sped the long laborious toil,
But when the burning lamp supplied the sun,
Each night unravelled what the day begun,--
Three live-long summers did the fraud prevail."

In modern times, Queen Elizabeth and her bevy of maidens might possibly have amused themselves with this art; for John Taylor, in 1640, writes of needlework, thus--

"All in dimension, ovals, squares, and rounds,
* * * *
So that art seemeth nearly natural,
In forming shapes so geometrical."

By no other art than that of the needle can "shapes" so entirely geometrical be formed. Among the "treasures of needlework" in ancient times may be mentioned the corslet sent by Amasis, king of Egypt, to the Lacedaemonians, and described by Herodotus as made of linen with many figures of animals inwrought and adorned with gold and cotton-wool; each thread of this corslet was composed of three hundred and sixty threads.


Another "treasure" was the veil of Minerva embroidered by virgins, selected from the best families in Athens, which, after being carried in procession with great pomp and ceremony round the city, was hung up in the Parthenon, and consecrated to Minerva.


Coming to another age, a "treasure" still remains to us in the tapestry worked by Matilda, wife of William the Conquerer, highly valuable as an historical picture, and a truthful representation of the events which preceded and accompanied the Conquest. It is still preserved at Bayeux, in Normandy, and consists of a web of cloth upwards of two hundred feet in length, and about twenty inches in breadth, with borders top and bottom. The horses are worked in colours of blue, yellow, green, and red; but the whole is interesting and spirited.


In the Fishmongers' Hall, in London is a tolerably well-preserved specimen of needlework, on a linen ground. The work itself is splendid, and must have been magnificent when used as a pall at the funeral of Sir William Walworth, in 1381. It is now much faded in colour, and the gold dimmed by age; but altogether it is an exquisite specimen of needlework of that or any other period. We question if the very best of our embroiderers could produce anything resembling it.


Miss Linwood's "treasures" have long since been scattered among private individuals: such a collection can rarely, if ever, be brought together again. Each separate picture, faultless in its detail, and perfect in its completion, seems literally painted on the canvas with fine wool and the needle: The tints are unfaded and natural, or mellowed into rich and deepened beauty. The skin of the dogs in the "Woodman in a Storm" so exactly resembles life, that even after a minute inspection one cannot be persuaded but that it must have been carefully transferred form the animal's back to the picture. Such a collection was worthy of a nation.


To enumerate all the treasures of the needle, either known of or still in existence would be no easy task; and it is probable that the art will last as long as time itself,---or says the poet of two hundred years since:

"----till the world be quite dissolved and past,
So long, at least, the needle's use shall last."

He also advises ladies to employ themselves with it in these words:

"It will increase their peace, enlarge their store,
To use their tongues less, and their needles more;
The needle's sharpnesse profit yields and pleasure,
But sharpnesse of the tongue bites out of measure."



_________________________________

Treasures in Needlework

This morning I was tidying up my studio (aka "Gramma's Playroom") and putting away all of my books after having entered them into Library Thing and Ravelry; and I happened to pick up a little book entitled, "Treasures in Needlework; Workable Patterns, Plain and Practical Instructions" by Mrs. Warren and Mrs. Pullan, first published in 1870. My copy is a little reprint paperback copy by Lancer Books in 1973.

I hadn't really looked at it in several years, so I started reading and got the brilliant idea to record some of my favourite bits here on my blog. So, to begin, the original Preface:

"The art of Needlework in every form is well known to be as old as the hills; but in past ages the higher or picturesque gradations of it were confined to the delicate fingers of Queens and Court ladies. Matilda, the accomplished consort of William the Conqueror, has left a memorable achievement in the Bayeux Tapestry -- a wondrous work truly, full of beauty, and most graphically presenting us with a history of the conquest. In our own times much has been done to raise the art of picturesque and useful Needlework in popular estimation; and it is gratifying to think that a spirit of emulation has been aroused, which must, sooner or later, render the knowledge of this art necessary to the perfection of womanly education.
"Treasures in Needlework" is brought out to help this good tendency, and to meet the wishes of numerous Lady-Needleworkers, who have felt the want of a Book of Reference in which could be found plain and practical instructions, combined with workable patterns, in every species of Fancy and Ornamental Needlework. We believe this requirement is fully met in the following pages, abounding as they do with examples of the utmost variety, and in all styles.

Perhaps no contemporaneous issue of the press, even in these days of illustrated literature, can boast of so many really useful engravings, or exhibit such manifest evidence of elaborate industry. Each design in the book can be worked out: the directions are the result of actual performance. They will, therefore, with the aid of the Errata, be all-sufficient for the reproduction of the patterns.

It only remains to say, that no expense has been spared to render the book worthy of universal acceptance. Upon the woodcuts and designs above two thousand pounds have been expended. This outlay does not include the cost of printing, paper, &c., nor any of the charges incidental to publishing in this shape. A very large sale, not only in "merrie England," but wherever fair fingers ply the needle, either for ornamental or useful purposes, can alone recompense the enterprise that now ventures to cast its bread upon the waters, earnestly entreating those who may derive pleasure or profit from the book to extend to it the kindness of a generous recommendation. "Treasures in Needlework" is suitable to all ranks; its instructions can be carried out by all capacities. Therefore let us hope, that while the work may grace the Boudoir of the Peeress, it shall also penetrate into the Cottage of the Peasant; that while it can become a source of useful recreation to the rich, it may also prove a reliable aid to the industrious effort of the poor."

Well, I guess this Peasant better get back to tidying the Cottage, eh! More snippets to come...

One More Old Post - High Mesa Cardigan

Thursday, March 30, 2006

High Mesa Cardigan

This is the cardigan that I used as a winter jacket this year. I made it as part of the Knit-Along (KAL) on the Ample Knitters List last winter (Jan. 2005). I decided this morning that I should take some photos (only six months after completion). It was really difficult to capture the patterning on the front and back.

I knit this sweater with some Bouquet 4 ply Polar bulky weight 100% wool yarn that was waiting patiently in my stash for the right project to come along. I followed the pattern pretty much as written except I increased along the sides to accommodate my larger hips. The finished measurements ended up being 59" at the bust and 65" at the hip.

I fulled the completed sweater just a little to make it more wind and weather proof then took it to my favourite seamstress and had her put in a heavy-duty two-way zipper. When I'm sitting on my scooter I can zip it up all the way and unzip a little from the bottom so the sweater doesn't make a huge bulge in front. I've got enough tummy of my own I don't need to make it look larger and it also keeps my legs warmer when it lies flat.


I also made myself a felted hat to go with my sweater. You can see me in my ensemble as I ride the lift into the HandyDART bus on my way home from the pool. I go to the pool four times a week and spend an hour doing my exercises.


Well, time to go and knit on my socks and plan my next knitting adventure! I have some Butterfly Super 10 cotton in a pretty coral colour that might make a nice summer weight High Mesa Cardigan.